Most people who think of Audemars Piguet immediately think of their iconic Royal Oak or Royal Oak Offshore watches, but AP is more than that for them.
Today, we’re going to take a look at a better watch. Something less sporty, something compact. The Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar is one of those watches that you don’t want to wear every day, and not because you can’t take it off. It’s just a special kind of watch that you want to wear on special occasions.
The watch featured here has a beautiful sunny brown dial with pink gold hour markers and hands. Delicately printed tracks of seconds and minutes appear between the pink gold indexed hour markers applied around the circumference of the dial.
The calendar sub register is slightly darker brown with white lettering to indicate the date, day of the week and leap year indicator at the center of the sub dial at 12 o’clock. In addition, the moon phase is displayed at 6 o’clock in vibrant colours. These calendar functions are adjusted via recessed buttons on the side of the case, which we will discuss below.
The 41mm 18kt rose gold case is 9.1mm thick, making it a bit slender for a perpetual calendar watch like this. Small enough to hide under a sleeve, yet thick enough to feel like a luxury watch in jest. It has a polished fixed bezel and lugs with a brushed finish on the case and lug sides.
The transparent sapphire caseback is secured by 6 screws, 3 at the top and 3 at the bottom. It reveals the splendor of the movement inside.
The movement is equipped with an engraved and partially skeletonized self-winding tourbillon in solid gold. The skeleton frame of the rotor is engraved with the letters “AP” and with inscriptions describing various features of the movement, such as “ADJ to hot five (5) positions”, “equal time”. “Thirty-eight (38) jewels”, “SWISS AUTOMATIC”, ornate engraved design elements and the Audemars Perpetual Royal Oak Chronograph Skeleton Tourbillon.
The watch is powered by the Audemars Piguet 2120/2802 movement. A 38 jewel self-winding movement with 343 parts, +/- 40 hours power reserve and a heartbeat of 2.75 Hz or 19,800. Not your standard rhythm.
Other engravings can be found on the case back. One such example is the name “Jules Audemars”, which is engraved in a concave circle and curved rectangle in which the letters Audemars Perpetual are raised.
The strap is made of dark brown crocodile leather, the top of which is attached to the lugs and is thicker at the top, tapered down towards the clasp. The strap has a soft calfskin layer applied to the back of the strap that allows contact with the wrist for a more comfortable fit.
The strap is stitched in brown and fastened to the wrist by a polished 18kt pink gold deployment (folding) clasp, similar in design to the partially open AP logo. The clasp itself is engraved with the Audemars Piguet logo.