You may be expecting me to write something great, but it seems that I have been stuck on this subject for a long time and my answer may not be very satisfactory to you. I don’t really want to discuss the so-called market price dynamics because I have always believed that the market is short term and unreliable and that the only way to truly understand the value of a piece is to discuss the history of the piece itself and the details of its craftsmanship.
You may be thinking: what else do you need to know about craftsmanship in the watch consumer market, where everyone looks up to Rolex? Apart from the fluctuations and changes in market prices, a Rolex is a Rolex after all, so what more needs to be said? Perhaps, but wouldn’t it be boring if all we had to talk about was how much Rolex watches cost, how much of a premium they command and how much “appreciation” we can expect? It would also be a disservice to the 100 years of Rolex’s history of creating watches that have been loved by millions of people around the world.
The Rolex Submariner has been released in 2020 and many speculations are completely wrong. Rolex has been so capricious as to slightly increase the case size of the Submariner model to 41mm and other detailed changes are not really visible unless you look closely.
The first Rolex Submariner (Submariner) was introduced in 1953 when a Rolex director, who was a diving enthusiast, suggested that Rolex create a watch for diving purposes, and after it was developed and launched on the market, the Submariner,Replica Watches as we commonly call it, was born. The first Submariner, model 6204, was water resistant to 100 metres, but at the time the crown was a large, round, flat shape, and some models were later nicknamed ‘Big Crown’ because of this crown (does that sound familiar?). It was also a nickname given to some of the Tudor vintage divers’ watches from the same group).
But after years of changes, revisions and research, the Ref. 5512 was launched in 1959 and became the definitive Submariner of the modern era, with its 40 mm case diameter and crown thickness of around 7 mm. It was at this point that it became one of the signature designs of the Submariner, and the water resistance of all Submariner models was deepened from 100 metres to 200 metres. Since its inception, the Rolex Submariner has remained a technical and design benchmark in the field of diving watches.
Calendar-free or with a calendar?
The calendar-free Submariner was loved by some and ignored by others (probably because they didn’t even know it existed), but it’s true that after the Submariner was launched, the calendar was never a consideration in the revisions that came and went.
It was not until 1969 (ten years after the introduction of the 5512 and 16 years after the 6204) that the first Submariner with a calendar appeared, the Ref. 1680. This was extremely important for the Submariner collection because the technology for an artificial sapphire crystal had not yet been developed, and this technical evolution of the date convex mirror became one of the main focuses of development of the Rolex Submariner in the following decades. However, the Submariner without a calendar is still the most original 1950s design and has a distinctive flavour when viewed in retrospect.
The 5513 non-calendar model introduced in the 1980s had several important technical improvements that have become hallmark elements of the modern non-calendar Submariner: three-dimensional hour-markers surrounded by white gold and filled with tritium luminescence; a glossy lacquered black dial. Since the 14060 model was launched in the 1990s, the Submariner has been equipped with the self-winding calibre 3130. Although it has always been chronometer-certified, almost everyone had been waiting for the Rolex-certified calibres 3230 (calendar-free) and 3235 (calendar), with an accuracy of plus or minus two seconds per day, to be used in the Submariner model that everyone loved. As hoped.
The 2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41 124060 has an Oyster steel case measuring 41 mm in diameter, a one-piece 60-minute scale black ceramic Cerachrom bezel, die-cast indexes and numerals coated in platinum using PVD coating technology, a bidirectional self-winding calibre 3230, oscillating at 4 Hz, a 70-hour power reserve, water resistance to 300 metres, stop-second function, Swiss Observatory certified, Rolex certified, five-year worldwide guarantee, Oyster three-compartment bracelet with folding Oyster safety clasp, with 20mm Rolex Glidelock extension system (photo @ Kyle Kuo).
I don’t know why I prefer the Submariner without a calendar, but in a way, the more I look at it,Replica omega Watches the purer it seems.
Some people don’t quite understand why the bezel of a diving watch should emphasise the unidirectional rotation of the watch. It is hard to imagine that it was not until around the 1980s that the technology of unidirectional rotating bezels was developed, after Rolex had debuted the Submariner and then sparked a trend for all brands to develop their own diving watches. There were safety concerns.
The Submariner was launched in 1981 with the first unidirectional rotating bezel, the 16,800, and the Rolex Submariner officially entered the five-digit model code. The so-called unidirectional rotating bezel is a device that can only be rotated in one direction by breaking the bezel with a finger, but not in the opposite direction.
The unidirectional rotatable bezel used on the Rolex Submariner has evolved from the unidirectional serrated bezel structure of 1979 to the present day, and has undergone many refinements. The outer ring of the Rolex Submariner is now driven by a ratchet system consisting of a spring element, a ball bearing and a top pusher that pushes up to the bottom teeth of the bezel.
In addition to the unidirectional rotatable bezel technology, there has also been a technical update of the bezel material of the Rolex Submariner, which was first introduced in 2005 for the 50th anniversary model of the GMT-Master II. One of the key elements of the design.
The Cerachrom ceramic bezel is characterised by its meticulous craftsmanship, starting with the firing of the ceramic ring into which the numerals and indexes are embedded, followed by the platinum or gold plating of the entire bezel, followed by the polishing and removal of the metal plating from the bezel, leaving the numerals and hour-markers in their metal plating, while the rest of the ceramic colour is smooth and shiny.
In the old days of Rolex professional sports watches, the bezels were often treated with aluminium plating, which often resulted in wear and oxidation, but these effects, which were not possible with the raw materials and technology of the time, have become a feature and selling point of collectible Rolex watches. I wonder if this is an advantage of the new technology, or if it is just too precise and accurate a process to be interesting.
As ever, the Cerachrom ceramic bezel has been copied in watchmaking circles, and with the introduction of the Submariner ceramic bezel design in 2008, it has become a standard feature of all diving watches on the market. The Submariner is now available in black, blue and green, and in the case of the GMT-Master II, a patented ceramic bezel with a two-colour combination of upper and lower halves has been developed.
The Submariner’s design is based on the black dial, which is more suited to luminous highlights, and the bezel is also black for this performance reason. Even the inverted triangle with a little three-dimensional dot luminous marker at 12 o’clock on the rotating bezel changed from red or silver to silver in the 1990s, and has been fixed in silver ever since. The Submariner, which had always been colourless in design, did not change colour or material until the yellow gold version with a blue bezel was introduced.
Even so, it was not until 2003 that the Submariner, which varied between blue, black, yellow gold and steel, was given an anniversary model with a green bezel, a first for the Submariner, but one that has since turned the Submariner’s green bezel (commonly known as the Green Water Goblin) into a hot commodity. The 16610LV with its green aluminium bezel and black dial, nicknamed the Kermit (Komi Frog from Sesame Street) model by watch enthusiasts in 2003, was then produced for seven years, followed by the green bezel and green face nicknamed the Hulk.
The 2010 116610LV’s Green Ring Green Disc Submariner, nicknamed the Hulk Hulk by watch enthusiasts, shows its place in the hearts of Rolex fans, thriving from a cute Kermit the Frog to an unbeatable superhero. At this time, the green ring has also been updated to Cerachrom ceramic lettering ring, it is also currently Rolex professional sports watches, the second all-green face plate models (the first for the launch of the GMT-Master II in 2005, the 50th anniversary black ring green plate commemorative model), with the launch of the new model 126610LV green ring black plate in 2020, the green plate green face 116610LV will also With the discontinuation of production, the green storm whipped up by Rolex will continue to sweep through.
In 2020 the 126610LV with its green ring and black disc and 41mm Submariner model returns to the glossy black lacquered dial that the Submariner deserves and follows the Rolex patented Cerachrom green ceramic bezel, the model commonly known as the Green Sailor enters another era. After seeing the 126610LV in person with its green bezel and black dial, I seem to be more attracted to this Green Ghost, as the 116610LV with its green dial and green face is indeed unique, but it also challenges the wearer to match the overall outfit.
How many metres of water resistance should a good dive watch have? In fact, the human body is only free to dive to a depth of 100 metres, which is reasonably sufficient. But for Rolex, the Submariner was already water resistant to 100 metres in 1953, and the following year it was even more water resistant to 200 metres.
The patented Triplock design with triple O-rings was soon introduced in the 1970s and the Submariner entered the advanced stage of being fully water resistant to 300 metres, with all Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches now being water resistant to over 100 metres and the Submariner to 300 metres. Take a closer look at the crown of the Submariner and see if there are three dots under the crown symbol? This is the symbol for the Triplock triple water resistance system.
Due to space constraints, it is not possible to go into the details of the Glidelock bracelet design used on the Submariner. The Submariner’s Glidelock bracelet has a total of 2mm of adjustment per compartment and a special adjustment on the back of the overall clasp that allows the overall length of the bracelet to be fine-tuned by around 2cm.
The article is already over-length and there are many small details about the Rolex Submariner that have not been included, so I’ll have to wait for another opportunity to explain how the Submariner model, which will be available in September 2020, differs from previous models. I’ll use the last paragraph to explain it briefly.
What is the difference between the new 2020 model and the previous model?
The new models of the Submariner 41mm launched in 2020 are: the 124060 calendar-free black steel model, the 126610LV green-ring black steel model, the 126613LB blue-ring blue disc yellow gold steel (intergold) model and the 126619LB blue-ring black disc white gold model. The differences from the previous models are barely noticeable on the outside, but on closer inspection the Submariner models, which have an increased case diameter of 41mm, have very subtle differences in the lines of the case and the width of the strap.
The new model has narrower lugs, probably due to the fact that the case diameter has been increased and the bracelet has been slightly widened, so that the narrower lines of the lugs are more harmonious and can be worn in harmony with the increased fit of the case.
To identify this new model, we can see a small crown at the bottom edge of the dial at 6 o’clock, in the middle of the English words Swiss Made, which indicates the new model with the new movement.